Arrival at Islam Karimov Tashkent International Airport, Uzbekistan.

We will pick you up at the airport any time day or night.

Introduction to Museum of Applied Arts- they have a great collection of crafts. We can see fine examples of Suzani [Suzan is the Persian word for needle]. Old ones to show regionality of designs, modern machine-made ones- it is good for us to compare the details and develop an eye for what we will see during our travels.

Pumpkin Museum- the owners of this quirky museum will shower you with Uzbek generosity and there are lots of details they share that will help along the road as we travel and explore the culture.

In the afternoon we are going metro hopping. Tashkent’s metro is famously fabulous, chandeliers and finely decorated. A chance to have a look [no photos] and we’ll pop up in some of fine parks of Tashkent. Tashkent should be known as the city of trees- it is so beautiful.

Welcome Dinner

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Early morning fast train to the fabled silk Valley of Fergana through dramatic mountain scenery.

We arrive in time for lunch- Kokand is famous for its Plov with a spicy side dish- other regions of Uzbekistan don’t have this regions taste for a picante side.

Kokand was the centre of a fabulously wealthy Khanate, originating in the 10th century and reaching its pinnacle in in the 18th Century.  We will visit the Palace of Khudayar Khan to explore, I found the tile work here inspiring for quilt designs, it is quite different in style to places we will see later. Much of the palace was destroyed by invading Russians only 19 of the original 120 rooms still stand.

Nearby Rishtan is famous for its ceramics, we will meet some of the local potters this afternoon. Historically a valuable trade good, all production during the Soviet era was confined to State Factories. Upon independence families were able to start their home potteries again. We meet a family who embraces “Viva La Capitalism” and use their creative talents to produce fine work.

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Exploring Fergana Valley today.

Later we return to Tashkent tonight via fast train.

Onto Fergana to explore silk production from the silkworm, through all the steps of producing fine ikat and velvet cloths. 

Ikat = Tying the Clouds.

 There are a number of workshops we will visit today- each with their own specialty and beautiful garments or fabric for sale. We will finish off at the Handicraft Centre and see their fine quality silk carpet weaving workshop. Magic Carpets are right here!

In the afternoon we will fall onto the comfortable fast train to return to Tashkent.

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Early morning flight to Nukus the capital of the autonomous state of Karakalpakstan. What does that mean? They fly two flags on the buildings here, one of Karakalpakstan and one of Uzbekistan- anything to do with the running of K is handled in K… although from the world perspective they are part of U. In 2022 the government tried to re-absorb K back into U- it did not go well, and K stood up to the govt and their Autonomous Status we re-affirmed. All are happy now. K makes up 40% of the landmass of Uzbekistan, it is fast becoming mostly desert as the Aral Sea becomes the Aral Desert. This has severely impacted the area.

This faraway place houses an extraordinary treasure- the I.V. Savitsky collection of Russian Avant Garde Art at the Nukus Museum.

After lunch, we will visit Gulnora who makes costumes for theatre and cultural productions and has a great knowledge of Karakalpak embroidery. We will spend time learning the meanings associated with the motifs used and try our hand at stitching a sampler that could be turned into a brooch or talisman.

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Originally a rich farming area from around 500BC, felt making for yurt and winter warmth is a craft long associated with the Karakalpak people.

We are heading out to a village to see Karakalpak felted carpets and woven yurt panels. Our hostess Altynay will show us how she makes the fitted felted boots needed for winter and we will make a pair of felt scuffs under her direction. We are being treated to a family cooked lunch.

We will call into the Mizdahkan Necropolis- an ancient burial ground dating back to the 9th century.

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We follow the Amu Darya river south through fertile green on one side and desert conditions on the other, towards Khiva.

Along the way we visit one of Desert Castles of Ancient Khorezm [on the tentative list of World Heritage Sites] these forts date back to 2 or 3rd century BC. We will visit Toprak-Kala along the way.

Khiva capital of the ancient of Khorzem kingdom. Itchan Kala – inner city of Khiva was the first site in Uzbekistan to be inscribed on the World Heritage List (1991)

The origin of the name Khiva is unknown, many stories have been told to explain it. A traditional story attributes the name to one of the sons of the prophet Noah: “It is said that Shem, after the flood, he found himself wandering in the desert alone. Having fallen asleep, he dreamt of 300 burning torches. On waking up, he was pleased with this omen, he founded the city with outlines in the form of a ship mapped out according to the placement of the torches, about which he had dreamt. Then Shem dug the Kheyvak well, the water from which had a surprising taste. It is possible to see this well in Ichan-Kala even today.”

here are good museums to explain the history of the area and town, great restaurants, and boutiques. This is an easy place to enjoy and take a million beautiful photographs. We will have full access to all monuments including the 57 m tall Islam Khodja Minaret- we will be very happy to take your photo if you choose to wind your way all the way UP to the viewing platform [note we will be standing in the courtyard below!! 😊] 

The naturally dyed Silk Carpets of Khiva are a must visit.

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It is a big drive today through the desert to Bukhara, we’ll stop and stretch our legs along the way, Bukhara will make the effort worthwhile.

We will visit the house-museum of Fayzulla Khodzhayev in Bukhara in the afternoon. This is the palace of a rich merchant of the 19th Century, great to see the furnishings and image how life used to be. It is a favourite spot for wedding photos too. The son of the house became a revolutionary at a young age, later a statesman and lead the Bukhara People’s Soviet Republic – part of the USSR. He did not agree with Stalin’s policy of cotton at the expense of food crops and run fowl of the Soviet regime. He was shot in Moscow in 1938 on trumped up charges.  1965 saw his place in history re-habilitated. Those who control the power write the history type case.

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We will start the day with a visit to the Ark of Bukhara, a citadel that has been in use since the 5th century.

Then visit the studio of a talented miniature painter for a workshop. Mir Sharif assured me we don’t need any great skill to have an enjoyable painting session, just bring our enthusiasm.

Visit the Puppet Makers- the ancient kingdoms we are visiting revered poetry and storytelling. Puppetry was a respected occupation, great to meet this family keeping the tradition alive.

The afternoon is free to explore the easily accessible monuments and souks of Bukhara.

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Today is relax day, take it a bit easy after all our travelling up to this point. Bukhara is the perfect place that calls for you to stroll around and take time.

The kingdom of Bukhara was famous for its Gold Work embroidery, we will visit a husband-and-wife team in their small workshop.

Bukhara is the perfect place to poke around, maybe go to the Hamman.

I am happy to take you for a walk across to the City Market. 

You might like to explore the wonderful stalls and monuments further, sit by the pond and have an ice-cream. You will love this day. Soak up being in Uzbekistan on the fabled Bukhara of the Silk Road. 

Catch your breath before the whirlwind starts again.

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First, we stop at Gijduvon. Archaeological evidence suggest pottery has been produced in the area since the 6th Century. We visit a family of potters who proudly boast the 8th generation is just taking up the mantle. During the Soviet era when your own business was not allowed, the family secretly run small runs of their pots to keep their techniques and recipes alive. Their processes and glazes are quite distinctive, and they did not want to lose their abilities. Today the pottery is flourishing, where once there was a busy community of 300 potteries, smaller ones are slowly restarting.

The women of this family are also industrious, their specialty is Suzani, the style of this area has the background cloth showing and silk chain stitch embroidery on top. We will spend time with the women and start a piece, they will provide a kit so we can continue as we travel.

Heading southeast, we see the transformation from desert to fertile farming lands.

Coming into Samarkand we will visit a contemporary textile studio in the afternoon.

Once ensconced in our hotel we will take a stroll to get a feel for the area- many magnificent monuments are close by.

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Early visit to The Registan, before it gets too crowded. It was the heart of the ancient city of Samarkand of the Timurid Empire and possibly the most photographed locale in Uzbekistan. Great for people watching as well.

Heading south over the mountains via the beautiful Kitab Pass to the valley of Shakhrisabz to visit the birthplace of Timur.

Take wonderful workshop in the Shakhrisabz style of silk embroidery. This is a dangerous location- the products of our teacher are sooooo desirable.

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Visit the blue alley of Shah-i-Zinda mausoleums.

Head out to Urgut Market, this market has everything, and we are heading to see the textile dealers.

First, we will meet Munira who will demonstrate braid weaving [ every Uzbek Chapan/ coat is finished with beautiful braid around the neckline and sleeves. She and her family stitch Suzani, she will show us how to use the hook and where it is used.

Take time to explore all the stalls around here- lots of treasure.

Visit to Kongil Papermaking Village Papermaking reached the area in the 10th century, [early industrial espionage, the Chinese did not give the secret away] There was innovation in the area and mulberry bark was used- this created a much longer lasting paper. The revered 15th century Uzbek poet, thinker and scientist Alisher Navoi called Samarkand paper “the wings that spread the thoughts of wise people to the world”. The industry prospered for centuries but died out during Russian Occupation. After the independence of Uzbekistan, the enterprising Muhtarov brothers decided to re-establish a mill here.

Free time this afternoon.

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First, we will walk down to the Bibi Khanyam Mausoleum, it is very special in the morning light.

Then the golden Timur Mausoleum.

Drive to Tashkent.

Celebrate our splendid journay with a Farewell Dinner.

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 Departures from Islam Karimov Tashkent International Airport, Uzbekistan.

We’ll drop you to the airport to meet your flight.